The Magic of the Carnaval de Binche
Every year on the Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, the small town of Binche in Wallonia transforms into a living legend. For me, growing up in French-speaking Belgium, the Carnaval de Binche is the most powerful and unique cultural event in our community.
When I was twelve, my grandfather took me for the first time. We arrived very early on Mardi Gras (Shrove Tuesday). The streets were still quiet, but you could feel the electricity in the air. Then, around 4 a.m., the magic began.
Hundreds of Gilles de Binche appeared — men dressed in magnificent costumes with wax masks, embroidered lion motifs, and enormous ostrich-feather headdresses that can weigh up to 4 kilos. They wear wooden clogs and carry baskets of oranges. As they marched through the narrow streets to the sound of drums and brass bands, they moved with incredible dignity and rhythm — a slow, almost hypnotic dance.
My grandfather explained that the Gilles represent the ancient spirits of the town and the victory over foreign invaders in the 16th century. Only men born in Binche can become Gilles, and it is a great honor passed down through families. They are not allowed to sit down or remove their masks during the entire day — a sign of total commitment to the tradition.
The highlight is the afternoon procession on the Grand Place. Thousands of people gather as the Gilles throw oranges to the crowd (a symbol of fertility and good luck). The music, the colorful costumes, the drumming, and the collective emotion create something almost sacred. It’s not just a carnival — it’s a deep expression of Walloon identity, resilience, and joy.
At the end of the day, as the Gilles dance one last time before disappearing into the night, there’s a powerful feeling of unity and continuity. Even today, when I return, I feel the same pride and emotion.
The Carnaval de Binche was recognized by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. It perfectly represents the spirit of French-speaking Belgium: proud of our traditions, warm, festive, and deeply attached to our local roots.